Saturday, July 5, 2008

Nightlife in Siem Reap

by Aaron Raj


The sun sets over the temples of Angkor Wat, the dusty and busy streets of Siem Reap get cleared as office shops and banks close to make way for the night business of Siem Reap. The nightlife of Siem Reap comes alive mostly along Pub Street and Bar Street. There are dozens of restaurants, night clubs and massage parlours along the streets.

Cambodian motorcyclists wait to offer rides to tourists unwilling to brave the quiet roads, as most of the tuk-tuk drivers have gone home. These enterprising motorcyclists use their own motorbikes to earn some extra income moonlighting after a hard day's work.

There are many interesting attractions on the streets. Among the interesting attractions along Pub Street and Bar Street are the restaurants which offer a variety of menus from around the world. The Khmer tradition is preserved and presented by a few Khmer-owned restaurants. These restaurants serve not only traditional Khmer food such as the must-try Amok, Khmer Curry and even a version of the Vietnamese spring roll.


Apart from the Khmer owned restaurants, Bar Street and Pub Street boasts of a high presence of foreign-owned restaurants. These include Mexican, Italian, Vietnamese and Indian restaurants like Kamasutra along the packed street at night.

Diners at Temple Restaurant and Bar are also able to watch the Apsara dances famed for their exquisitely beautiful costumes and graceful dance moves being performed for them right on stage. Customers are even encouraged to join in at the end in the spirit of communal learning and plain merry-making. The performances happen daily from 7.30p.m. until 9.30p.m on the upper level of the restaurant. I had a chat with a local tourist guide who flapped his hand in amusement when I told him I went to watch the Apsara dance at Temple Bar and Restaurant.

"That one is fake!" he exclaimed, shaking his head.

"The real one don't wear anything on top and the women can really bend their fingers. We locals can tell the difference between the real and fake performance," he added. Although we weren't treated to the "original" version in all its authentic and bare-chested glory, I have to admit that it was good enough for us tourists to appreciate well.

The prices in these clubs and restaurants are cheap and quite affordable for most tourists. But there are also cheaper restaurants along the main streets of Siem Reap. Just across the two famous streets, locals set up stalls and tables selling various Cambodian dishes. The stalls may not seem as clean as the restaurants and the presence of flies around doesn't make it any better. Yet, the food is way cheaper compared to the restaurants lining the two streets. For example, a plate of fried rice which costs US$3 along Pub Street and Bar Street only costs US$1 at these stalls.

However, the night life in Siem Reap does not only revolve around food. Just a short 10 minute walk from Pub Street and Bar Street, tourists flock towards the night market. The night market opens daily from evening onwards. Tourists are able to buy various local souvenirs at the Old Market. From head scarfs to t-shirts to silver to paintings, tourists can bargain their way to the best price at the night market.


The night market also has a small cinema which airs documentaries every night. At a cost of US$3, one can watch a documentary on Pol Pot's regime, The Killing Fields or Mines of Cambodia. This also happens to be the only Cinema in Siem Reap but sadly it doesn't house blockbuster releases.

But the nightlife of Siem Reap can also be a painful sight to take in. Many child beggars and land mine victims come out to the streets at night to support themselves through Siem Reap's thriving night life. What is heart-wrenching about these people is that they often beg not for money but for food to feed their bellies, making theirs a genuine plight.

Like all night scene tourism around the world, there is a seamier side to Siem Reap's tourism - the sex industry. I personally experienced being approached for some 'night company' while walking back from the cyber face alone, much to my shock and surprise. Transsexuals walk around the night stalls hoping to attract customers and certain night clubs have bar girls to entertain their customers.

Nevertheless, the night life of Siem Reap is indeed fascinating. Tourists are able to have a good and fun holiday and need not worry about food or other resources. Siem Reap has definitely a lot to offer both day and night.

1 comment:

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