Thursday, July 10, 2008

The Angkor Wat: Culture and Heritage For Sale?

by Melanie A. Chalil


This is what the world comes to see.

The monumental Angkor Wat is an image that cannot be separated from Cambodia. Situated in the city of Siem Reap, this UNESCO World Heritage site attracts visitors from all over the globe throughout the year. If Cambodia runs on tourism, then Angkor Wat is the heart of the nation. In 2004, the Cambodian Ministry of Tourism estimated a figure of 309, 373 tourists that visited Siem Reap. In the following year, the number increased to 440, 125.

Although it is a well-known structure today, it is hard to believe that the temple was once abandoned in 1432. Henri Mouhout, a French explorer, brought the Angkor Wat to the world's attention in 1860. Fascinated, the French people funded and managed an extensive restoration project. There is a disturbing sense in discovery. I say this because, discovery leads to opportunity and opportunity leads to exploitation. But what is exploited here, you may ask?

For countries that depends on tourism, inevitably, culture and heritage becomes their main commodity just as certain countries' economies depend on oil. The Angkor Wat's icon is seen everywhere. On beer, clothing, hotels and even Hollywood motion pictures. The publicity and attention Angkor receives is astounding. I seized the chance to interview some tourists who visited Angkor Wat.

Ruth Bupenzer from Germany said, "Opening Angkor Wat for public access is a good way to earn money."

It may do wonders for one's economy but there are certain economic repercussions that follows it.

One such repercussion concerning this is the field of art dealing, art collecting and auctions, that are usually kept exclusive to the affluent. The income generated by dealing art is extraordinary, which brings me to the point about looting historical artifacts. The World Archaeological Congress states that economic problems lead to illegal trafficking of antiquities. In Asia, cities that are well-known for antique trading are Bangkok, Hong Kong, Singapore and Tokyo.


A dollar a picture - or was it two dollars?


Cambodia possesses some of the most admired and desired treasures for art dealers and collectors. When there is demand, there is financial opportunity and thus, one must provide supply. Some of most commonly stolen ancient artifacts are pottery, stone-axes, beads, bronze axes and sculptures. This will cause destruction in one of the most important ancient civilization's history. Until one understands the value of cultural property, only then works of art can be appreciated.

Measures have been taken to prevent and reduce raiding. Recently, UNESCO came up with a web page that documents all Khmer artifacts from known archaeological sites. Many of the statues found in Angkor have been relocated to museums.

The opening of Angkor Wat for public access is a good approach to educate the globalizing world about the past. But I was rather surprised that the walls of the temples were exposed to human contact. The layer of oil on our bodies is detrimental to the already fragile age of the building.

Sor Brakord, a supervisor at the entrance added, "I don't want them [visitors] to touch anything but it's unavoidable."


Signs like these are everywhere - but people seem to ignore them.


As I explored the place, I did not encounter any signs preventing people from touching the bas reliefs. Styers Els from Belgium who visited with her family believes that visitors must respect the temples.

Pollution also becomes a concern when there is a massive amount of visitors. Veronique Eurbin who came to the Angkor Wat with her son said, "The area was a little polluted and the cars and tuk-tuks should wait away from the temple's site." The French-woman used to live in Laos for 10 years and was intrigued by her friends' visit to Angkor. Her son added that only bicycles should be allowed in the temple's surrounding area.

The Angkor Wat is our bridge to the Khmer civilization's past. Its infinite majesty is witness to a changing nation – from god-like Kings to communists and now, tourists. For me, it is not about the scale of its architecture but I admire art's immortality. Bupenzer mentioned that, "A beautiful thing [monument] has to be made public to the world but it must be protected and guarded." Her reply is spot-on in terms of responsible exhibition.

Western history classes will tell you that art is a reflection of a country's wealth. There is much truth in that. The Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam, where Rembrandt's Night Watch is exhibited, is unable to quote a price for the famed painting. To the Dutch, it is priceless. The Angkor Wat, to Cambodians and the world should be too.

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